Last week I went into a café on Water Street and had rabbit and mushroom soup, roasted quail, and caesar salad: It ran me less that $20. Based on a hard-learned lesson at the Toronto airport involving discount veal, I usually avoid reasonably-priced exotic meat. But the rabbit soup was rich, hearty, and delicious, and my quail was cooked to succulent perfection by an obviously expert hand.
So where did I have this maxim-busting, budget-optimizing dining experience?
It was at Bistro Sofia, a relatively new addition to the St. John’s culinary landscape, helmed by Gregory Bersinsky — erstwhile chef at the now-legendary Vault.
Bistro Sofia occupies the space the short-lived Coffee Matters Too once did, but there’s [almost] no sign of the garish decor — complete with one-quarter-size reproduction of Michelangelo’s David — the former boasted.

Not pictured: the vibe-killing Coke cooler
The Euro-styled bistro seems much more suited to the cavernous Water Street location. On offer are daily specials, a wide variety of panini, and a surfeit of remarkable pastry selections, and it’s all quite modestly priced.
Gourmet-calibre food [remember, in their former restaurant, Sofia's chefs served such decadences as butter-poached veal tenderloin] at wallet-friendly prices is just one example of the cultural revolution I’ve observed in St. John’s over the past decade.
When I first moved here, the international food scene featured a couple of Indian restaurants and a few Chinese places serving the ever-authentic standbys of chicken balls and fried rice. Now, Duckworth Street is a veritable International Avenue. Delicious Pan-Asian fare is available at nearly a dozen places. My favourite is a bowl of Seoul dumpling soup, a remarkably accurate take on urban Korean comfort food, available cheaply at Asian Taste.
Not to be outdone by the international joints, places like Aqua specialize in innovative dishes featuring fresh local ingredients.
In the summer months, the St. John’s Farmers’ Market is filled to capacity every Saturday, with vendors selling local produce, Afro-Carib food, arts and crafts, and baked goods. Hell, there’s even one vendor serving up authentic Turkmenistani cuisine.
Food aside, the arts scene in the city seems to be flourishing more than ever. Local film and television productions like Crackie and the ever-present Republic of Doyle seem to showcase the finest in local talent, all the while presenting the city and province spectacularly.
Cultural events like the Nickel Film Festival, the RPM Challenge, the 24HAM, and innumerable others speak to the ever-increasing cultural vibrance and livability of the capital city.
The huge outpouring of dissent toward the proposed downtown Fortis developments shows a sense of pride among the city’s citizens and a possessiveness of its historical and esthetic value.
Perhaps as a result of the province’s inexorable march towards prosperity, the air seems to vibrate with an atmosphere of hope and confidence that I couldn’t really detect when I first moved here.
Whatever it is, I think more than ever we’re seeing the new St. John’s, a cosmopolitan capital with a distinct cultural identity. It’s only a matter of time before the rest of Canada sees it that way too.